Hello everyone, Yes Justin, it is modelled on the typical Carl Frei style Dutch street organ layout. From front to back; 2 ranks of 23 melody Bourdons (stopped flute) tuned celeste, 2 ranks of 23 melody Violins, tuned celeste. Then we have 14 accompaniment stopped, then 14 accompaniment stopped (playing an octave lower?). Then a rank of 12 bass cellos at the back, then a rank of 12 bass stopped (playing in octaves) . Edward is intending to fit a rank of 12 deep bass helpers (sounding the octave lower) later. That will be 156 pipes. Rob.

I realy would love to hear it

Same here

The plan is to fit the 16' bass pipes, fit the glock & zlophone on an either or basis (ie experiment but I doubt playing together) and then wonder what to do next. At old warden I saw and listenned to a home made Gavioli organ (some original bits) which was made from the ground up by Martin Ivatt. A very clever man. Martin lives not a million miles from me so he is likely to get a visitor at some stage! I asked Martin my usual question of 'are there any drawings' and got the usual answer 'no, done by trial and error and I did what sounded best'. Coming from a model engineering background where there is no shortage of drawings to build from I find the organ world a bit perplexing. I do however realise the reasons and appreciate that in engineering terms a piece of steel bar is either 1.000" or it is not. Such engineering is quantitative but 'does it sound nice' is subjective and cannot be so easily measured. I have been told my violins (as per Carl Frei spead sheet) do indeed 'sound the part', this was expanded to 'what an organ should sound like' and eventually 'not as per some home made jobs' and so. All very confusing. But I guess satisfactory. To my untrained and tone deaf ear they are just LOUD. Happy days. Edward.

Hi If you could, please could you upload a sound file (rrecording) to a website like http://www.zshare.net/. that way us iMODers can hear your beautiful looking organ.

Jake, sorry I am not cever enough (yet) to work out how to do this. I am awaiting the return from the metalagist of the exact content of the 1907 glock bar. Once I know I hope to make the missing keys. I listenned to an aluminium glock and in my opinion the 1907 steel (iron?) bars sounded much clearer and rang much better. That is why I bought the incomplete vintage glock rather than the complete modern aluminium alternative. Am I mad? Probably. Is it just me or do the steel/iron bars produce a clearer ring?

Hello eveyone, Yes Edward, you are right, steel does produce the best tone. It rings much clearer than ali, especially when you hit it with a steel hammer. The Wellershaus at Thursford has what is generally regarded as the best glockenspiel of any organ. Go & have a listen & study the hammers, they are at a low level, close enough to touch (but don't!) They are about 3/4" dia, tapered to a point. The other point to remember is that the hammer shaft, or mechanism itself, must have some degree of whip, so that the hammer strikes the bar, then immediately leaves it to ring out. Otherwise it will mute it. Your old theatre organ mechanism will be set up like this. Of course the down side of the steel glock is the higher volume. You can compensate for this by dulling down the impact with plastic or wooden hammers, but of course you lose the 'zingyness' factor. Reducing the power of the impact is more desirable. The choice of ali bars by the modern organ building industry is one of cost. Most people will not see the point in spending twice as much for a steel glock if they are not going to notice the difference, tonally. Although we do offer the choice at Alan Pell Music, we have only built a handfull of steel glock units, compared to many ali ones. Rob.

(as per Carl Frei spead sheet) Where did you get this spreadsheet ? I'd love a copy !! Stephen

Quote: (as per Carl Frei spread sheet) Quote: (Where did you get this spreadsheet ? I'd love a copy !! Stephen) Same here Jim

Make that 3.

I had the great privilage at GDSF to be introduced to miss/mrs (sorry don't know) Howard of organ building fame - and in particular violin pipe manufacture. I showed her my organ pictures, ie the one above you have all seen, and was very flattered by her attentions. It bolstered my confidence no end! A certain gentleman present who has heard my organ (and claims all he knows is care of Judith) vouched for the sound quality. She then asked asked the question the three of you have just asked. I said that my understanding was that she herself was responsible and that they they had been measured from a Carl Frei organ. I am sure Judith had worked out the route by which I had come by her drawings. However, given that I was a rank beginner working for nothing more than the pleasure of the build, and that the spreadsheet had obviousely been put to good use she seemed happy enough. The spreadsheet is not mine to pass on. Sorry. I do hope in a year or five I will be able to play my organ for Judith. Wether she will approve or not remains to be seen!

Hi, I have had the results from the sample 1907 Glock bar back. It is NOT ordinary mild steel. It is some form of spring steel, they said the metalagurgy suggested something like a WW1 leaf spring. I was suprised they could be so specific. Happy days, at least I now know what I need to source to complete my glock. It does sound great! (the bar I have anyway!) Edward.

Hi there Edward Most of the good high carbon steels (hard steel) will give a good glock bar. This can be seen in a good hand saw. If you try to 'play' a good saw, it will sound superb. However if you try the same trick with a cheap saw that is soft, it will hardly make a noise. Try getting some high chrome carbon steel bar. It will come under the heading of Ground Flat Stock. There is a range of thicknesses and widths that is very suitable for glock bar sizes. This stuff can be hardened and tempered, and will give a fantastic 'ring'. Grind the bar ends a bit at a time until the right note is struck. If you are slightly too short, giving the note too high a pitch, try grinding a tiny amount from the back of the middle of the bar. This should bring the pitch back down. Fastening holes should be exactly one quarter of the way in from the ends. This is the 'dead' spot. Remember if you are then having the bars chromed, this will alter the pitch. Cheers Peter Griffiths

Peter, all, Your reply is music to my ears (what else on this site!). My existing bars, I have about 2/3rds I think, are very rusty but I bought then for the wonderful 'ring'. Each bar has a lot removed from the middle underside - almost half the bar thickness and there are marks from heavy filing. I do have all the resonators though. Magnets: Mr Pell recomends big ones along the lines that you really need to wack it one - but Alan uses aliminium bars which might need a good wack. I am wondering if my steel bars will be fine with smaller magnets? At GDSF I was advised that big magnets were not necessarally required, but that I ought to experiment before spending too much. Thoughts? Thanks to you all, Edward.,

Well maybe you should do what American organs do. Like how the hammer hits the base drum, only a lot smaller.