View Full Version: Register Control Boxes

organ >>Organ Building >>Register Control Boxes


<< Prev | Next >>

Nick Williams- 07-15-2006
Register Control Boxes
I’ve been making a new register box for my Chiappa over the last couple of days, using the standard ‘catch’ design for the first time (I have made the sliding block type before, but fancied a change). There are so many different design variations I’ve seen of this basic catch principle, so thinking up how to construct this two-way box I’ve hopefully incorporated all the best features of each. I haven’t got to the catch element yet, but the palleted ventil part and cancel puffs are finished, as is the backing framework. Pics as follows: And part of the reason I haven’t finished it yet is due in part to the modern world of electronics in the form of digital cordless phones, now in workshop range… … nothing worse to take one’s mind off the job! (other than my Dad taking the picture maybe?!) Anyway, back to register boxes, what are the advantages / disadvantages of using puffs to lift each lever to the ‘set’ position compared to rectangular pneumatic motors? Deep puffs should have enough movement, and needing to get the fulcrum as far near the back as possible there’s not much point in utilising the hinge point of a motor by mounting the vertical catch lever straight to this. Hhence I thought the puffs would be the best option - any ideas or improvements? Hints and tips? I did consider having the lower pallet forming the horizontal catch lever itself, but ruled that out on the grounds that there would be no ‘give’ to allow the catch to perform its duty properly while still keeping pressure on the lower pallet. Note the springs I’ve made from a hacksaw blade for this purpose to fit between the horizontal lever and the lower pallet (the upper pallets are spring shut so this spring needs to overcome the weaker spring inside) – only one shown in the photos though. I hope what I’ve done so far will work successfully – the chest is certainly totally air tight with no pallet leakage (the advantage of springing them shut!). I’ve found a few photos of other register boxes in my archives that I might post up here later for reference, but any other examples would be most interesting. The largest box I can remember being on open display is the one on the fantastic 89-key Leach & Overington Concert Organ. I think this was an 18-way one, and probably with a few spare for future expansion. It’s nice to see this in close proximity to the key frame, and it’s with this thought in mind that I’m going to fit the above box in the upper section of the Chiappa casework, where utilising Anna Page’s Perspex panel idea it will be seen. The other advantage of course, it can easily be accessed in this position when altering/adding the register controls to the music. Cheers for now, Nick

Stephen Brickles- 07-17-2006

Nice photos Nick - do you have one of your excellent cross-sectional drawings of this design so we can see what it's going to look like when you are done ? Thanks, Stephen.

Nick Williams- 07-18-2006

Hi Stephen, I haven't had time to do a computerised cross-sectional drawing yet I'm afraid; I've been using rough hand-drawn sketches to work to instead. Here is a photo of the register box on Saunders' 98-key fair organ, which uses motors to raise each lever rather than puffs: The motor forms the hinge point for the horisontal lever in this design. However, I want the fulcrum further back, so a pin-joint at the back of the box would be best (already made the support for this), with the levers raised by puffs towards the front end. I also have a better linkage between the horisonal and vertical levers in mind that allows the catch spring to be attached at the front. This is very much like the Irvin's Marenghi one detailed in John Page's excellent restoration article - see photos at the following link: http://www.johnpage.co.uk/organs/restoration/regbox/regbox.htm The above has been very useful so far in constructing my register box, as has Cockayne's book which has a full cross sectional drawing of the general French style design. The main difference with my design above is I've managed to machine the main part of the ventil all from the same block of wood (cedar). Thus I've managed to keep the overall size of the unit down to a minimum to suit the small free space left inside the back of the Chiappa's casework.

John Page- 07-18-2006

I'm glad you have made use of my article, Nick, and thanks for your remarks. This presents an opportunity to comment on Stuart's observations in another thread, about The Marenghi's registers. As the organ was in the hands of the Irvin family from about 1914, I am convinced that the register box as fitted was original, with only three channels. Clearly, there were more on the puff-board shown, but other parts were made for a 3-way. I would like to hear a convincing reason for a register and its ventil being removed from an organ running music provided with a glock register. I found no evidence that a ventil was ever fitted to the organ. Back in the 1980s we decided with Benny Irvin to make a glock ventil connected to the Saxophone register, but as it wasn't original, I took it off during my recent restoration. Regards, John

Nick Williams- 07-24-2006

Right, well I've now completed the register box and am pleased to say it works perfectly, with a good snappy action every time. In the end I was worried that if I used puffs to raise the catches to the 'set' position they would need to be quite deeply made in order to have enough distance of travel. I therefore chose to use small pneumatic motors instead for this purpose, which do the job nicely. The modified hack saw blade springs on the horisontal catch levers work well too, though the four other pallet and catch springs used in the register box I made from proper spring steel wire. Photos as follows... Despite a hectic weekend I managed to get the box installed and connected just in time to take the Chiappa out for its second event yesterday (see Photo Gallery section for pictures).

Stephen Brickles- 07-24-2006

Nice photos and beautiful work as always Nick - you have a lot of patience !! Do you have any tips for creating the steel springs ? I was trying to make some pallet springs the other day and I was having a hard time keeping the coils tight on the springs - the piano wire I was using kept wanting to jump apart as I was bending it. What gauge wire did you use ? Many Thanks, Stephen.

Nick Williams- 07-25-2006

Hi Stephen, I'm no expert with springs, I just followed the guide at the back of Cockayne's book (by Ronald Leach) which details techniques and jigs to produce pallet springs. You do need to keep the wire pulled tight to produce nice uniform coils, and having the right sort of wire is important too. I can't remember the gauge off hand, but I basically bought lots of lenghts of various spring steel wires and rods from a technology supplies company which have stood me well over the years. I think there is a certain type of thin welding wire (not rod!) which be used for springs too; perhaps others with experience can share their tips here for spring making, as it is quite an art to make them all with the same strength! All the best, Nick

Forumer™ is Voted #1 Free Forum Hosting provider
Build your own community today with the largest message board hosting company.